8 Places to Go in Wild Wales

The long human history of Wales has left us an incredible number of sacred remains and lost ruins. They are often sited on choice spots, high on hills or looking out to sea, so visiting draws us into their wild and beautiful landscapes.

The earliest of these remains date from prehistoric times and the Bronze Age, when Druids were at the height of their power. You can find ceremonial burial chambers, walk around remote stone circles or climb inside megalithic cromlech tombs – some even pre-dating the Egyptian pyramids. Hill forts date back to before Roman occupation and offer a wonderful place to watch the sunset. Lost chapels, holy wells and hermitages were founded by saints, sometimes more than 1,500 years ago. A vast array of castles across Wales tells the story of the Norman conquests during the 11th and 12th centuries, and ruined abbeys are testament to the destruction of the 16th century dissolution.

Here is a celebration of wild and historic places that lie hidden, sometimes just off the beaten path. As you explore this incredible country, play on its shell sand beaches, camp in its verdant valleys, swim in its sparkling mountain lakes and follow its ancient roads all the wonder, magic and mystery of Wales is there to discover.

With sublime views down Pennard Pill to Threecliff Bay, this 13th-century Norman castle still sports a huge gatehouse and towers, and is perfect for sunsets. It is part-buried in sand, apparently because the Norman baron upset the beach-dwelling ‘tylwyth teg’ (fairy folk). From here a steep sand path leads down to the valley and onto the beach.

DIRECTIONS: There is a pay car park on the A4118 at Parkmill (by turning SA3 2EH) outside the shop or in the field opp in summer. Take path by field over stream and bear L steeply up through the woods to the cabins, bear R around edge of the golf course. You can return via the low route, along the stream the entire way. Or drop down to the Pill, around the arch to Pobbles beach and up to Southgate or back across the golf course. 20 mins.

This mystical ancient woodland has stood here for over 6,000 years; it is filled with twisted oaks, and foxgloves grow out of huge mossy boulders. Nearby you’ll find Pentre Ifan cromlech, dating from around the same time, one of the most impressive burial chambers in Pembrokeshire.

DIRECTIONS: On A487 2 miles E of Newport, shortly before SA41 3XB, turn R signed Brynberian/Burial Chamber, then R again after 1¾ miles, following same signs, to find parking layby after ½ mile for Pentre Ifan. After this, continue on ⅓ mile, beyond SA41 3TZ, to second bend to turn R through Tycanol farm gate over cattle grid and park on verge L. Go up farm road and path immediately crosses fence into field R and heads NNW on ancient bridleway, into woods in ⅓ mile. You can loop W on track to Tycanol farmhouse to return. Bring a map! 15 mins.

Built for Llewellyn the Great in the 1220s, the castle fell to Edward I in 1283 and has remained a ruin ever since. Its position high up on a rocky promontory offers handsome views down the valley to Birds’ Rock, and the extensive ruins are fun for children.

DIRECTIONS: In Abergynolwyn, turn off B4405 at Railway Inn. After 1⅓ miles, signed R up dead end at staggered crossroads (dir LL36 9TS). Castle parking after ½ mile on L. 10 mins.

A trio of atmospheric ancient sites, spanning millennia. The walled village is Romano-British, and its massive stone foundations make for a surreal secret playground surrounded by woods. En route explore the 12th-century ruined chapel, and afterwards, walk back along the lane 300m for the Neolithic burial chamber, which you can climb down inside.

DIRECTIONS: From Moelfre head SW on A5108, then signed R by roundabout, past LL72 8NG. 10 mins. >

An enchanting lost landscape in the northern Rhinogs. This old, wet manganese tunnel by a stream leads to several chambers. More tunnels in the ancient mossy woods downstream. Further up the lane a beautiful ruined byre illustrates how shepherds used to live, with the fireplace and sleeping quarters upstairs and the cows lowing gently below. On your return there are superb estuary views from the footpath and plateau above Caerwych Farm (Ardudwy Way).

DIRECTIONS: From Penrhyndeudraeth go over the road/rail bridge, then straight over A496 and up. Turn L just after LL47 6YR (converted chapel with postbox), continue around Llyn Tecwyn Isaf, then first R and first L through gate (signed Caerwych). Up, up and through Caerwych farm and another gate. Continue on, and at end of woods, at cattle grid (½ mile before LL47 6YU) find mine ruin on L. 200m further along on R is a stream. Follow it up to find overgrown tunnel on R. The byre is ¼ mile further along on R. Very limited parking or turning, be respectful. 5 mins.

Founded in 1147, Margam abbey is a splendid ruin with a 12-sided chapter house. Now set in a popular country park, climb up through the beautiful ancient woodland to escape the crowds and to find a 15th-century ruined chapel on the hilltop looking out to sea; it was built for parishioners not allowed to worship at the abbey below. There’s also a café and museum, which houses early Christian crosses, next to the abbey.

DIRECTIONS: At J38 on M5 take the Pyle A48 exit and turn immediately L (dir Margam Stones museum, Weds–Sun, entry fee) but after 350m take L fork (dir SA13 2TB ) and park 280m further on, by the start of lake. A footpath runs up into woods opp NW, leading up to chapel, 200m. 5 mins.

Overgrown ruins of pre-Conquest 11th-century stone castle in a walled complex – look out for the goats who climb the steep walls. Adjacent St. Bartholomew church is beautiful inside and has a rare detached bell tower.

DIRECTIONS: Turn off B4361 at Richards Castle signed Historic Church. After ¾ mile, park outside church before SY8 4ET. A path from the rear L of church leads up to castle site. 2 mins.

Climb down the steps to this tiny, dark hermit’s cell, built into a cleft in the high cliffs with stupendous views out over the sea. You can scramble down the rocks below and coasteer to Huntsman’s Leap in calm weather. Or bear due east from the car park ½ mile to New Quay beach, a long, snaky, sandy inlet also known locally as Tank Beach.

DIRECTIONS: Start for Broad Haven beach but follow signs straight on at Bosherston, past SA71 5DP, to road-end car park. Chapel is straight ahead. 5 mins.

Daniel is author of the new Wild Guide Wales and the Marches: Hidden Places, Great Adventures and the Good Life. The book has details of over 600 secret adventures and 500 wilder places to eat and sleep in Wales, Shropshire and Herefordshire. (Wild Things Publishing, £16.99). Find the whole range of magical adventure books at wildthingspublishing.com